Barstool Review: Craft Beer and Rabbit Ragu at North River

With so many fabulous cocktail haunts around New York City, it’s easy to forget the delicious simplicity of beer. Thankfully, while enjoying dinner at North River a few weeks ago, a standard “what beers do you have available?” turned into an enlightening exchange with Miss Karri Diomede and I was quickly reminded of the diversity and depth of “the world’s most widely consumed alcoholic beverage” (thanks, Wikipedia!).

Karri is the Head Server at North River and a self-proclaimed “hophead”. Before joining the team at the east village restaurant, she spent five years at the Peekskill Brewery; as she explains, “working in a brewery, you learn EVERYTHING!” She learned about the brewing process, aging, hops, and about pairings, which is where her knowledge is best utilized at North River.

Though Karri works five nights a week, there’s a slight chance you won’t have the pleasure of experiencing her expertise in person. Fear not! Karri has shared some of her beer pairings exclusively with ThirstyNYC, so you can make the most of your next North River visit, whether or not she’s on the floor.

The most popular appetizers at North River are the Smoked Deviled Eggs and the Pork Belly Doughnut. Both are incredibly delicious and worthy of ordering; however, Karrie recommends starting with a light Lardo Salad and the Saison Dupont. A saison is a pale ale that has just enough hoppy-ness to get the meal started without completely overpowering your palate for the dishes that follow. It also boasts notes of lemon and zest that pair well with the olive oil and citrus salad dressing. Generally speaking, hops cleanse your palate of fat; after each bite of the crispy lardo coats your mouth, a sip of saison will wipe it clean. (Editor’s note: by the same logic, I’d imagine the Saison Dupont would hold up quite well against the Belly Doughnut; though, I’ll probably have to visit again to test this theory.)

If you’re sticking with the classics for your entrée, Karri’s expert order is the Brisket Burger with Two Brother’s “Sidekick” Extra Pale Ale. As she put it, “[Sidekick] is light, it’s bright, it has enough hop to stand up to the burger and enough sweetness to bring out the onions”. Though “a little hoppier” than the Saison, Sidekick is a “sessionable” beer, meaning it is “something you can drink several of without losing the flavor.” When you’re enjoying a homemade bun, a 25% brisket /75% ground chuck burger, caramelized onion mayo and thrice cooked fries, you’re going to want more than one beer.

For a more adventurous entrée order, pair the Rabbit Pappardelle with an Ommegang Rare Vos. The beer is coppery in color with a noticeable effervescence. The tight bubbles tend to cleanse your mouth after eating a rich dish, like the Rabbit Papparedelle, made with homemade pasta, gamey rabbit, ricotta, and parmesan.

Despite her vast knowledge and penchant for craft brews, Karri still appreciates the world of so-called “bad beers” – “[But Light] is a lot more diverse than people give it credit for!”

Karri’s ultimate words of beer wisdom? “Drink local!”